Pit Stop in Stonington, Deer Isle

LOCATION: Various Anchorages in the vicinity of Stonington, Deer Isle.

VESSEL: “Nena” – Wilbur 42 

NARRATIVE: We had a wonderful 2 weeks on Nena from June 8 to June 20. We are experienced cruisers, having spent more than 5 years as full-time liveaboards – a Krogen Express 53 and then a Nordhavn 55 – and 20 more as part-time cruisers, with more than a dozen charters in Maine, the Pacific Northwest, Bahamas, Virgin Islands, Eastern Caribbean, France, and Croatia. Of all the charter locations, Maine, in particular, continues to pull at our heartstrings. Over the past four years, we have done three charters with Ellis Boat Charters. 

Due to many factors, Maine offers few charter options for proper, capable, and comfortable cruising vessels in the 36-42’ range. Ellis Boat Charters stands out for us as THE go-to Maine charter group. Shane and his team provide superior client service and communication. When there is the occasional “hiccup” (these are “BOATS,” after all), Shane pulls out all the stops to get things fixed. He sent a team to address helm control and battery problems on our recent charter. They fixed everything in one morning at the Billings boat yard in Stonington, Deer Isle. As a couple of long-time cruisers, we enjoyed the process, chatting with the team and participating in some of the troubleshooting.

PHOTO: Ellis Charter Vessel in Merchant Row near the Island McGlathery.

INSIGHTS: We use TZ iBoat (Ex. Navionics) on iPads for planning (and as backup chart plotters). Also, the Taft (5th Edition) Maine cruising guide onboard Ellis charter boats is extremely useful (in conjunction with TZ iBoat) for route planning. We avoid marinas and prefer anchoring or tying up to a mooring ball. Read on for a few of our favorites:

• “Hell’s Half Acre” between Bold and Devil’s Islands. Two mooring balls and room to anchor. Watch the gaggle of lobster pots coming in. It has a great view of Stonington and 5G cell reception.

• Anchorage between Opechee, Sheep, and Black Islands. Anchorage is only wide open, has good holding in mud, and has an okay cell reception.

• North Swan, including off Orono Island and inside Buckle Hbr

• Several anchorages in Merchant Row, our favorite, probably McGlathery (see sunset drone photo), which has good holding in mud and two choices depending on wind direction.

• Pulpit Harbor on North Haven (renowned for sunsets – when it isn’t cloudy – and visiting schooners). There is a big anchorage (mud bottom) and plenty of room (when we’re there in June and September’s “shoulder” seasons). Excellent wind protection except from the North.

• Between Babbidge and Calderwood Islands – good holding in mud. Go all the way into the head of the anchorage and watch out for the lobster pots on the port side. It can get windy when it blows from the W or SW, but rocks at the western end prevent too much wave action.

• Winter or Seal Harbors on Vinalhavn. Excellent wind protection from virtually every direction except the NE (mind your anchor is holding – not enough fetch for uncomfortable waves). Go in as far as you can. It’s muddy ground for good holding but room for only 2 or 3 boats at a time. Mind the lobster pots.

• To the east of SW Hbr is Roque Island – a wide open bay and beach crescent. Spotty cell reception. On the way back west, try anchoring off Mistake Island between Great Waas and Steele Islands. Precise anchor placement among the lobster pots is important for adequate swing room. Holding is good. Protected or OK in most winds as Islands surround the anchorage or large rock formations that prevent swell from entering. Mud Hole on Great Waas is highly rated, but we found it too tight for either a 38’ or 42’ boat, given the aquaculture installation near the head of the inlet.